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Ideal Cut Diamonds
The ideal cut diamond is the pinnacle of perfection. Reflecting
incredible amounts of light.
In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky empirically calculated the ideal proportions
of a round diamond as part of his Ph.D. thesis in Mathematics.
An "ideal cut," according to Tolkowsky, has the following
characteristics:
- Round in shape, and brilliant-cut (58 facets)
- Depth percentage: 59%
- Table percentage: 53%
- Crown height percentage: 16%
- Pavilion depth percentage: 43%
- Girdle thickness: Medium and even all the way around the diamond
- Symmetry: Perfect
- Perfectly aligned and formed facets
- Very small or absent culet
It should be obvious that finding a Tolkowsky diamond is an expensive
undertaking. To complicate matters even more, recent studies by
the G.I.A. have demonstrated that a 59% table yields a more brilliant
diamond (as opposed to Tolkowsky's 53% specification). Jewelers
tend to confuse the issue even more, since their version of the
"ideal cut" will likely vary from day to day, as their
diamond inventory changes. So how do you, the consumer, go about
making the right decision with regard to cut? What tradeoffs can
you make that will yield an almost ideal-cut diamond? Also, what
if you prefer a non-round shape?
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